[Baltimore Sun] Wine, etc.: There are quality Bordeaux second labels that cost significantly less | COMMENTARY
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We often hear wine consumers complain that some of the best cabernet sauvignons from Napa Valley are out of their price range. We point them to Chile, South America, and Paso Robles for less-expensive alternatives. But we forget to point them back to Bordeaux, where producers have been making cabernet sauvignon and blends for centuries.
Bordeaux and Napa Valley generally blend a combination of the same red grapes, so there isn’t a unique wine-making technique that makes one better than the other. What spells the difference is often climate and soil. Yet consumers often associate Bordeaux with classified first-growths that cost more than $1,000 a bottle.
Prices for first-growth Bordeaux can be stratospheric, but look to unclassified wines and you can find some steals. These wines might not have the prestige as, say, Chateau Margaux, but they deliver a lot of quality for a lot less money. Tasted blind, they will hold up well with many red blends from California. Those looking to start a cellar and who want French wine would be wise to consider reasonably priced Bordeaux.
While new, hearty grape varieties have been introduced to accommodate climate changes, the five principal grapes in Bordeaux remain: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec. But not all regions use all five grapes, and some — because of their location — favor either merlot or cabernet sauvignon.
Bordeaux is defined by its rivers, primarily the Gironde, Dordogne and Garonne. The Left Bank is on the Atlantic Ocean side of the rivers; the Right Bank is on the right and north side of the Dordogne River. The area between the rivers is known as Entre Deux Mers (French for “between two seas”). The Left Bank is known for its focus on cabernet sauvignon while merlot dominates Right Bank wines.
Although there are nearly 60 appellations in Bordeaux, the primary ones known to produce the best wine include: Margaux, Paulliac, Haut-Medoc, Saint-Estephe, Saint-Emilion, Saint-Julien, Pomerol, Sauternes and Barsac.
Over time, Bordeaux wine producers have recognized the value in augmenting expensive, top-growth wines with second labels that cost significantly less. These are often wines made from grapes grown in younger vineyards or vineyards not as valued. The oak treatment also might be less, but the winemaking is usually the same.
Here are a few Bordeaux wines that can start a collection at prices well under most Napa Valley red blends.
Pagodes de Cos Saint-Estephe 2019 ($45). This blend of cabernet sauvignon (55%), merlot, petit verdot and cabernet franc is a gorgeous wine with blue and black fruit flavors, cassis and anise. Good balance with a hint of spice. When we think of many overpriced red blends from Napa Valley, this stands out as a bargain for collectors.
G d’Estournel Medoc 2019 ($40). This wine and the Pagodes de Cos are made under the guidance of Cos d’Estournel and represent good values. Dominated by merlot and blended with cabernet sauvignon and a bit of cabernet franc, the G d’Estournel is softer with generous floral and plum aromas. The flavors focus on black cherries and plums with a dash of herbs and big tannins. “G” is for Goulee, a former island in the Gironde estuary.
Madame de Beaucaillou Haut-Medoc 2019 ($25). From the house of Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, this medium-bodied wine is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and cabernet franc. Flush with black cherry flavors and hints of dried herbs and mineral. We stashed several of these bottles in the cellar and they have yet to disappoint us.
Chateau de la Huste Fronsac 2018 ($20). This soft and approachable blend is mostly merlot with some cabernet franc. Ripe cherry and tobacco notes and long in the finish, it is a remarkable wine for the price. The current vintage is 2019 and probably sells for a couple of dollars more. Fronsac is east of the Bordeaux region on the northern bank of the Dordogne River.
Chateau de Pez 2nd Pez Saint-Estephe 2020 ($30). As the second label of this producer, 2nd Pez is a terrific blend of 65% percent cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot. Full-bodied and balanced, it has floral aromas and youthful strawberry and dark cherry flavors with a hint of tobacco and solid tannins.
Chateau Soutard-Cadet Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2018 ($40). We found this gem online for $30, making it an even better buy. It is composed of 90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc, a combination that results in deep color with forest floor aromas, plum and blackberry flavors. Big in style, it’s a wine to pair with a juicy steak or cellar for a few years.
Chateau Chasse-Spleen Moulis en Medoc 2019 ($35-40). A blend of cabernet sauvignon (51%), merlot, petit verdot, cabernet franc, this gem has firm tannins and juicy dark fruit flavors.
Chateau Siran Margaux 2019 ($45-55). Violet, blackberry aromas followed by fine tannins and plum, blackberry flavors with a hint of herbs.
Chateau de Ferrand Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2021 ($35-40). There is a lot of forward plum and cherry fruit in this easy-to-drink wine. Plums, kirsch and spice.
Wine picks
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Aveta Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2022 ($30). If you have seen art of a water goddess carrying fruit, that’s Aventa. And, there is a lot of fruit here, ranging the gamut from pineapple, peach, grapefruit, citrus and a hint of mineral. It is a blend of sauvignon blanc, sauvignon musque, semillon and muscat canelli. Very different.
Tinto Negro Finca La Escuela Malbec 2020 ($50). This isn’t your ordinary malbec. Much more complex, tannic and rich in flavor, it is a wine to pair with lamb or beef. Red and black fruit flavors with hints of dried rosemary and sage.
Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly, syndicated wine column since 1985. See their blog at moreaboutwine.com. They can be reached at marq1948@gmail.com.
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